I went to the place where the Guga hunt begins. I didn’t expect to see this.

On the northernmost tip of the Isle of Lewis lies Ness, a remote district comprising 16 small villages. At first glance, there is little to distinguish Ness from countless other Scottish coastal communities. Quiet villages of weather-beaten houses, narrow roads and rugged coastline overlooking the Atlantic. But there’s one thing that makes Ness unlike anywhere […]